Edo-Tokyo Open Air Architectural Museum: The Real-Life Inspiration for Studio Ghibli’s “Spirited Away”
Located within the lush grounds of Koganei Park in Koganei City, Tokyo, the Edo-Tokyo Open Air Architectural Museum is a captivating open-air museum dedicated to the relocation and preservation of historically significant buildings dating from the Edo period to the mid-Showa period. A stroll through the museum’s grounds offers a truly immersive experience, making visitors feel as though they have stepped back in time.
One of the primary reasons this museum has garnered so much international attention is its association with Studio Ghibli. It is widely recognized as a major source of inspiration for the enchanting backdrops seen in the masterpiece film, Spirited Away.
In this article, we will explore the museum’s highlights—focusing on the specific buildings that Studio Ghibli officially cited as artistic references—and discover how they helped shape the film’s iconic world.
1. The Model for Kamaji’s Boiler Room: Takei Sanshodo (Stationery Store)
This is the only spot in the museum officially cited by Studio Ghibli as a source for their background art.
Takei Sanshodo (Stationery Store)
Era: Early Showa period (1927)
Structure: Three-story wooden building
Location: Shitamachi-naka-dori, East Zone
Original Location: Kanda Sudacho, Chiyoda-ku
Highlight: Craftsmanship covering an entire wall
The greatest appeal of this building is the Paulownia wood drawers lined up densely from the interior walls almost to the ceiling. This design was created to effectively utilize limited space to store large quantities of calligraphy supplies, such as brushes, by type for the stationery shop.
This overwhelming number of drawers is said to have served as the model for the giant medicine cabinet in the boiler room where Kamaji extends his long limbs to put in and take out herb tags in the film. It is known that Director Hayao Miyazaki himself visited frequently and was very fond of the atmosphere of this room, and it was used as a reference for the film’s artwork.
2. Representative buildings that convey the atmosphere of the bathhouse and downtown area
From here, we will introduce buildings representative of Tokyo at the time. While they are not direct models for the film, they possess a charm that resonates with the world of the movie (such as its otherworldly and retro feel).
Kodakara-yu
Era: Early Showa period (1929)
Structure: Single-story wooden and reinforced concrete building
Location: Shitamachi-naka-dori, East Zone
Original Location: Senju Motomachi, Adachi-ku
Highlight: “Miya-zukuri” style, showcasing the essence of Tokyo’s public bathhouse culture
Kodakara-yu is a magnificent “Miya-zukuri” style building that strongly preserves the characteristics of Tokyo’s public bathhouse architecture, built during the reconstruction period following the Great Kanto Earthquake.
Karahafu (curved gable): A luxurious and majestic roof style reminiscent of temples and shrines.
Oriage-go-tenjo (coved coffered ceiling): A high-status ceiling where the four corners of a grid-like “coffered” ceiling are curved upwards to create a raised section.
Paintings of Mount Fuji: The bathroom features a majestic mural of Mount Fuji, a signature element of public bathhouse culture.
Kagiya (Izakaya) and Shitamachi-naka-dori
The scenery of “Shitamachi-naka-dori,” which stretches across the East Zone, is reminiscent of the cityscape Chihiro’s parents stepped into before turning into pigs at the beginning of the film. The landscape, lined with retro shops such as the izakaya “Kagiya” and the billboard-style architecture of “Maruni Shoten,” possesses an otherworldly atmosphere that feels like a step away from everyday life.
Toei Streetcar Model 7500
This is a streetcar that once ran through the streets of Tokyo, now exhibited in the East Square of the park. Many visitors find that it evokes the image of the nostalgic train Chihiro boards to travel across the sea in the latter half of the movie. You can actually step inside to see the Showa-retro seats and the driver’s platform.
The building officially used as a reference for the film’s artwork is "Takei Sanshodo," a stationery store located in the East Zone. In particular, the drawers covering the entire wall inside the store are said to have served as the model for Kamaji's boiler room.
It is efficient to head straight to the East Zone after entering the park and visit "Takei Sanshodo" → "Kodakara-yu" → "Toei Streetcar" in that order. If you have time to spare afterward, you can proceed to the Western-style buildings in the West Zone. If you are only touring the East Zone, the estimated time required is approximately 1.5 to 2 hours.
There are facilities within the park where you can enjoy meals or take a break. Cafe "Musashino Sabo" inside the De Lalande House: Located within a Meiji-era Western-style mansion in the West Zone, you can enjoy Western-style meals, light snacks, and sweets. Eatery in the East Zone: On the second floor of the Rest Gallery, there is an eatery called "Tabemono-dokoro Kura," where you can eat Musashino udon and other dishes.
Opening hours vary depending on the season. Opening Hours: April – September: 9:30 AM – 5:30 PM October – March: 9:30 AM – 4:30 PM Closed: Every Monday (if Monday is a national holiday, the following weekday), and during the New Year period. Please check the official website for further details.
It is convenient to use the bus from JR Chuo Line "Musashi-Koganei Station" or "Higashi-Koganei Station," and Seibu Shinjuku Line "Hana-Koganei Station." Please visit the official website for details.
The Edo-Tokyo Open Air Architectural Museum is home to a collection of precious buildings that allow you to experience the landscapes and culture of Tokyo from the Edo period onwards, including “Takei Sanshodo,” which served as the model for Kamaji’s boiler room in Spirited Away. We hope you will visit this “holy land” for fans and enjoy a time-traveling experience where the world of the film and history intertwine.
This article was brought to you by the editorial department of “Another TOKYO TAMA,” operated by the Tama Tourism Promotion Council, which shares tourism information for Koganei City and the entire Tama region.
Edo-Tokyo Open Air Architectural Museum Official Website:
https://www.tatemonoen.jp/english/
Tourist Information for the Tama Region: “Another TOKYO TAMA”
https://at-tama.tokyo/lang_en/
