Sake Brewery / Higashimurayama Toshimaya Shuzo
A Historic Brewery Embracing New Challenges Redefining the Art of Sake Brewing in the City
Delicious cuisine calls for equally exceptional sake. And with the right drink, every dish can be enjoyed even more deeply. For true gourmets, sake is an indispensable partner in the pleasure of dining.In this series introducing the makers and artisans passionately devoted to crafting sake in the Tama area, we turn our attention to Toshimaya Shuzo in Higashimurayama.
Toshimaya Shuzo is located about a 20-minute walk from Higashimurayama Station, approximately 30 minutes from Shinjuku Station on the Seibu Shinjuku Line. Among the breweries in the Tama area, it enjoys particularly convenient access from central Tokyo.At a time when younger generations are said to be drifting away from sake, the brewery has succeeded in attracting a growing number of young urban fans.
At the same time, Toshimaya Shuzo carries more than 400 years of history and tradition. Balancing this legacy with the need to adapt to changing times remains one of the defining challenges for sake breweries today.With the gracious consent of fourth-generation president Takaharu Tanaka, we take a candid look at Toshimaya Shuzo’s efforts as one example of how a long-established brewery is navigating and overcoming the trials faced by many in the industry.
Toshimaya Shuzo traces its origins back to 1596 (Keicho 1), when its founder, JuemonToshimaya, opened a sake shop and tavern called “Toshimaya” along the Kamakura Riverbank in Kanda, Edo—today’s Tokyo. (From the Showa era onward, it became known as ToshimayaHonten.)Regarded as the oldest sake retailer in Tokyo, the shop gained popularity by selling sake at affordable prices and serving simple yet satisfying dishes such as Tofu Dengaku—grilled tofu topped with miso—as inexpensive accompaniments. The establishment flourished and was eventually appointed a purveyor to the Edo shogunate.
Originally, the brewery’s production facilities were located in the Nada region of Hyogo Prefecture, one of Japan’s most renowned sake-producing areas. In the early Showa period, however, the 12th-generation head of the family began brewing sake under his own direction, and in 1936 the business was formally established as a separate brewing company and relocated to Higashimurayama.Its flagship label is “Kinkon.” The brewery has received numerous awards at the prestigious Annual Japan Sake Awards and is also known for supplying sacred sake to Meiji Jingu Shrine and Kanda Myojin Shrine.
The Weight of Tradition in Pursuing New Sake
The deeper the tradition, the more challenging it becomes to create something new. President Tanaka experienced this firsthand in his younger years.He strongly believed that “because we carry such a long tradition, we cannot simply continue doing the same things.” Yet turning that conviction into reality proved to be far from easy.
Several years after joining the company, as he became more deeply involved in both brewing and sales, a turning point arrived. During a chance visit to a restaurant, he encountered a sake so remarkable that he was stunned—“I had no idea sake could taste this good,” he recalls.Inspired, he repeatedly proposed to the Toji(master brewer) that they explore new approaches to brewing. Yet the response was always the same: “There’s no need to change the way we make it.”Undeterred, President Tanaka began conducting his own research.
He attended a training program at the National Research Institute of Brewing, where he met Takahiro Hirai, president of Hirai Takahiro Shuzo in Ishinomaki, who had successfully revived the Hidakami brand.Hirai offered him various pieces of advice, including the idea that “if you can find customers willing to sell this sake, the master brewer will come on board.“Through Hirai’s guidance, Tanaka was introduced to Koyama Shoten, a sake retailer in Seiseki-Sakuragaoka, Tama City.
Koyama Shoten, established in 1914 (Taisho 3), is a sake retailer renowned among local sake enthusiasts. The owner personally visits breweries across Japan, sourcing roughly 80% of the sake directly from the brewers themselves. He actively introduces lesser-known breweries, carrying only those whose flavors meet his exacting standards.Full of youthful passion, President Tanaka showed up unannounced and spoke candidly to Mr. Koyama about the sake he wanted to create. Laughing, Koyama remarked, “You’re the first person to come here without even a sample,” yet he immediately recognized Tanaka’s dedication and seriousness, responding, “Alright, I’m in.”
He conveyed Mr. Koyama’s encouragement to the master brewer at Toshimaya Shuzo, and at last, the brewer agreed to craft a new sake. With Tanaka receiving candid feedback and concrete advice from Mr. Koyama, he and theToji engaged in repeated trials and adjustments.
The result was a small-batch, almost entirely hand-crafted brew, giving birth to a new brand for Toshimaya Shuzo: Okunokami, known for its fragrant aroma and gentle, approachable flavor.“That was 25 years ago. Full of passion—we were so young!” President Tanaka laughs.
The name Okunokami carries the wish to “protect the brewery and its storehouse.” It is sold only through a select number of dedicated retailers and was intentionally kept from general distribution.From the earliest days, Toshimaya Shuzo has valued retailers and restaurants that understand the spirit and history behind the brewery and its sake, and that convey this story carefully to the drinker.At a time when younger generations are drifting away from sake, the brewery also aimed to support its partner shops by providing high-quality, approachable sake—making it easier for them to introduce Toshimaya’s products to their customers.
Unlike Kinkon, which emphasizes stable production in large tanks, Okunokami is brewed in small batches using small tanks, with no adjustments—unfiltered and undiluted. Immediately after pressing, it is bottled and stored entirely under refrigeration, ensuring that each bottle reaches customers in optimal condition.
Since its launch, it has been praised for its rich flavor, balanced sweetness, and fresh, approachable character. Even after more than 25 years, it continues to be popular, winning fans among younger drinkers as well.
Toshimaya Shuzo actively works to cultivate new sake enthusiasts. Every week, it offers the Saturday Brewery Tour, allowing visitors to explore the interior of the brewery and experience the brewing process and philosophy firsthand.The brewery’s annual Kura-Biraki (brewery-opening) event has, for the past 20 years, combined sake with club music, food, and traditional cultural performances such as rakugo (comic storytelling). The event attracts not only local residents but also young people in their 20s and 30s, as well as international visitors from central Tokyo. Here, sake is enjoyed in a casual and approachable way, appealing to a wide range of participants.
Tradition meets innovation. Experience it for yourself by joining the Saturday Brewery Tour or attending the Kura-Biraki event.
| Facility Name | Toshimaya Shuzo Co., Ltd. |
|---|---|
| Address | 3-14-10 Kumegawa-cho, Higashimurayama, Tokyo |
| Phone | +81-42-391-0601 |
| Website | |
| On-Site Shop | “KAMOSHI no BA” Hours: |
